Hita: Oita’s “Little Kyoto”

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Tucked away in the mountains between Kumamoto and Oita, Hita is a small riverside town. It has Edo-period streets, traditional festivals, and centuries-old craftsmanship. There is also a local eel dish that alone justifies making the journey.

Hita (日田市) is a compact mountain city in western Oita Prefecture, famed for its Mameda and Kuma districts, which preserve the architecture and atmosphere of the Edo period. Centrally located in Kyushu, the city flourished as a trading hub and religious center before becoming a strategic base for feudal lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the late 16th century.

It later passed to Tokugawa Ieyasu. He designated it a tenryo, a territory under direct shogunate control. This shaped much of the merchant culture and architecture that survives today. Modeled on Kyoto’s townscape and trading tradition, Hita has earned its reputation as Oita’s “Little Kyoto.” Walking its historic streets makes that comparison feel entirely earned.

Takatsuka Atago Jizoson

Takatsuka Atago Jizo-son is a spiritually layered temple with over 1,200 years of history, drawing visitors from across Japan who come to pray for specific blessings and the fulfillment of wishes. The grounds blend Shinto and Buddhist traditions and are home to over 2,000 Jizo statues arranged along the hillside, giving the approach a density and atmosphere that builds as you climb.

Three features in particular stand out. The Megumi no Tama, or Blessing Ball, behind the main hall, is said to grant wishes when gently touched. The Okakae Jizo, or Embracing Jizo, offers spiritual blessings to those who hold it while praying. Finally, along the approach, a 1,300-year-old ginkgo tree is revered for its spiritual energy and associated with fertility blessings.

The small streets at the base of the temple are lined with shops selling regional snacks and traditional souvenirs, making it a natural first stop before heading into the city.

Hita Gion Museum

Every July, Hita hosts the Hita Gion Festival. It is recognized as a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property. It is also part of Japan’s UNESCO-designated “Yama, Hoko, Yatai, Float Festivals.” Like other Gion festivals held across Japan in summer, it originates from prayers for protection. These prayers were directed against plague and natural disaster. The centerpiece is a parade of enormous Yamahoko floats through the historic city streets.

The Hita Gion Museum preserves and displays these magnificent floats year-round, along with the ornate curtains that traditionally adorn them. The museum was closed during my visit, so I was unable to see the collection in person. I recommend checking opening hours on their official website before visiting.

Kangien

Established in 1805 by the scholar, educator, and poet Hirose Tanso, Kangien was one of the largest private schools in Japan during the late Edo period. Its name, Kan’i-en, meaning “open to all,” reflected a genuinely progressive philosophy that broke from shogunate convention by welcoming students regardless of social rank or gender. The school became one of the most important centers of intellectuals in Kyushu, producing influential figures such as Takano Choei and Omura Masujiro, who shaped Japan during its transition from the Edo to the Meiji eras.

Today, the historic grounds are free to explore, and the adjacent Kan’i-en Education and Research Center houses materials related to the school, its founder, and its graduates. It is a quieter stop than the temples and museums nearby, but the history it represents is significant, and the grounds have a reflective quality that rewards taking your time.

Kuma and Mameda

The two districts that define Hita’s character sit on either side of the station. Kuma, to the south, traces its roots to a traditional fishing village. It sits along the Mikuma River. It now serves as Hita’s hot spring retreat. A mix of classic ryokan and contemporary hotels can be found here. Their baths are fed by the region’s natural geothermal waters.

In summer, yakatabune traditional riverboats glide along the Mikuma River. Guests can enjoy seasonal meals on board. They can also watch traditional cormorant fishing from the water. It is one of the city’s more atmospheric experiences.

Mameda, to the north, is where Hita’s Little Kyoto reputation is most apparent. The historic streets are lined with traditional craft shops, sake and shochu producers, and old merchant buildings. Highlights include Kuncho Shuzo Sake Brewery with its sake and shochu museum, the Nihon Marukan Traditional Medicine Museum housed in a striking Edo-era building, and the Hita Shoyu Hina Goten, which I visited during my day trip and describe in the next section.

Hita Goten Museum

The Hina Goten Museum in Mameda houses approximately 3,500 antique hina dolls spanning from the early 1700s to the present, including the largest hina doll in all of Japan. The collection traces the evolution of the Hinamatsuri tradition, which is observed on March 3rd to wish young girls health and happiness. The festival has roots in the Chinese Shangsi Festival, where dolls were floated on rivers to carry away misfortunes. Over time in Japan, these became ornate ceremonial objects kept inside homes, eventually evolving into the elaborate tiered displays that are now synonymous with the holiday.

The scale and age of the collection here are remarkable. Even without a strong prior interest in the tradition, the craftsmanship of the oldest dolls and the sheer number of them on display is genuinely impressive.

Hita Mabushi Senya

Eel is Hita’s most celebrated local specialty, and Hita Mabushi Senya is one of the city’s most renowned spots to eat it. The eel is grilled kabayaki-style until the skin crisps and the flesh becomes tender, then generously glazed with a sweet soy sauce-based sauce, chopped into smaller pieces, and arranged over rice.

The dish is called hitsumabushi and is eaten in four stages: first on its own, then with negi, wasabi, and seaweed, then as ochazuke with dashi broth poured over, and finally however you prefer. Its customization lets you enjoy the natural flavor of eel in different ways, each with a distinct taste. Note, the restaurant is typically busy from opening, so be prepared for a queue. It is worth it.

Is Hita Worth Visiting?

Yes, it’s one of those towns that will win you over with its charm. The Edo-period streets in Mameda are well-preserved, the hitsumabushi eel is a real highlight, and the combination of the temple, the museums, and the riverside onsen district gives the city a variety that most small Japanese towns cannot match. It sees far fewer international visitors than the more famous onsen towns of Oita, which is part of its appeal. If you are traveling between Fukuoka and Beppu, a half day or more spent here can be very rewarding.

More to Explore Nearby

• Kokonoe Yume Suspension Bridge — About 40 minutes east, Japan’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge spans a dramatic gorge in the Kuju highlands, with sweeping views of waterfalls and forested valleys below.
• Yufuin Kinrin Lake — A scenic hour’s drive brings you to Yufuin’s most iconic spot, a misty lake ringed by traditional inns and charming cafes in one of Kyushu’s most beloved resort towns.
• Kurokawa Onsen — Over the Kumamoto border to the south, this intimate hot spring village set in a forested gorge is one of the most atmospheric onsen destinations in all of Kyushu. Yanagawa Canals — An hour northwest, the willow-lined waterways of Yanagawa offer a wonderfully unhurried afternoon drifting by flat-bottomed boat through the “Venice of Kyushu.”