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Take in Hokkaido’s breathtaking scenery, treat yourself to sweets in Otaru, Yoichi, and Shakotan, and savor the final summer sea urchins.
Summer in Hokkaido ends earlier than in the rest of Japan. To celebrate, I visited one of my favorite spots: Shakotan. Along the way, I stopped by Yoichi, a small town famous for its wineries, the Nikka Whisky Distillery, fresh fruit, and seafood. I started my day with uni (sea urchin) for breakfast—yes, breakfast!—and then picked up freshly baked bread from one of Yoichi’s most popular bakeries.
Next, I headed to Shakotan, driving along the Hokkaido coastline while soaking in the last of the summer scenery. It was a day packed with incredible food and breathtaking views.
Driving in Hokkaido
For this trip, I rented a car, which I highly recommend. Driving through Hokkaido’s mountains and along the coast allows you to enjoy the scenery at your own pace.
The roads are generally easy to navigate, with many signs in English. One note: driving from central Sapporo can be tricky due to one-way streets and trams.
What to Do in Yoichi
Yoichi is a small coastal town about an hour from Sapporo and 30 minutes from Otaru, making it ideal for a day trip.
From Sapporo Station, you can take the Rapid Airport train to Otaru in about 35 minutes. From Otaru Station, transfer to the Hakodate Line toward Kutchan and arrive at Yoichi Station in 25 minutes. The total fare is 2,130 yen.
Whiskey and Wine
Yoichi is best known for the Nikka Whisky Distillery. If you’ve been to Sapporo, you might recognize the giant Nikka whiskey sign in Susukino. The town is also gaining recognition for its wine.
Seafood in Yoichi
My first stop was Kakizaki Shoten, a seafood market with a restaurant on the second floor. I couldn’t resist uni-don, a sea urchin rice bowl. Since moving to Hokkaido over four years ago, uni has become one of my favorite foods.
Hokkaido Uni
Hokkaido is famous for its seafood, particularly uni, now served in restaurants around the world. Three ocean currents surround the island: the Oyashio Current in the Pacific and the Soya and Tsushima Currents in the Sea of Japan. These kombu-rich currents create ideal conditions for uni, which feed on kombu.
The cooler Hokkaido waters also make the uni sweeter and more flavorful. While uni is available year-round in places like Hakodate, Rishiri, and Rebun, the uni near Shakotan, Yoichi, and Otaru is exceptional.
From June to August or September, depending on the year, the warm climate and mineral-rich waters produce the sweetest, creamiest, and most sought-after uni. Luckily, I visited just in time for the season’s end.
The two most prized types are Kita-Murasaki and Ezo-Bafun uni. Kita-Murasaki is delicate, firm yet creamy, and subtly sweet. Ezo-Bafun has a richer, more intense flavor and sweetness. If you visit outside peak season, uni-don is still available, but it may come from other areas of Hokkaido.
Kakizaki Shoten
The restaurant opened at 10 a.m., and a queue had already formed. Clearly, everyone had the same idea I did—chasing the last of the season’s uni!
You can find uni-don in restaurants throughout Shakotan, Yoichi, and Otaru, but a few things make Kakizaki Shoten my go-to. First, the price. A whole bowl of uni-don costs around 4,000 yen (about $27 USD in 2023), while other places may charge upwards of 6,000 yen ($41).
Second, they serve sumeshi (酢飯), or vinegared rice. The bowl also comes with soy sauce to add saltiness and umami. I can’t say enough about how much I love uni, and I hope everyone reading gets the chance to try it.
Kaisendon and more
My partner ordered a kaisendon (海鮮丼), a fresh seafood bowl topped with the day’s special crab. Both dishes came with miso soup, rich with seafood flavors from dashi made using all the bones and shells.
By the time we finished around 11:30, the line had grown even longer, stretching outside the building.
On the ground floor, the fish market offers some of the freshest seafood in Hokkaido—from oysters and crab to dried hokke (Okhotsk Atka mackerel) and salmon roe. You can also pick up fresh fruits, vegetables, locally made drinks, and souvenirs.
Bakery Stop
After enjoying the seafood, it was time for our next stop: Shakotan. We decided to grab something for the road and headed to Backerei Yoichi, one of the most popular bakeries in town. A small line had already formed when we arrived.
The bakery was so busy they were baking fresh pieces as they sold, constantly restocking the counter. I picked up croissants, a cinnamon roll, and a wine-pork hot dog—perfect treats for the road.
More to Explore Nearby
Yoichi is famous as the home of the Nikka Whisky Distillery, but its location on the beautiful Shakotan Peninsula places it near dramatic coastal viewpoints, therapeutic hot springs, and Hokkaido’s best food and factory tours.
- Cape Kamui – Journey along the coast of the Shakotan Peninsula to this dramatic viewpoint, known for its sheer cliffs and the incredible, deep blue “Shakotan Blue” sea.
- Lake Toya – Head south to this major caldera lake located in the Shikotsu-Toya National Park, offering tranquil views, boat cruises, and evening fireworks displays in the summer.
- Sapporo Beer Garden – Contrast your whisky tasting with some local beer at this massive, lively complex, which serves fresh beer and Hokkaido’s famous grilled lamb (Genghis Khan).
- Shiroi Koibito Park – Visit this theme park dedicated to the famous local cookie, where you can tour the factory and enjoy the beautiful European-style gardens and cafes.
